- Sara Ego
- Sep 2, 2024
- 7 min read
THE JOURNEY OF EGO ATELIER: CRAFTSMANSHIP
Welcome to the second instalment of our blog series, The Journey of Ego Atelier. We're thrilled to have you join us as we delve deeper into the heart of what makes our brand truly special. In this edition, we're excited to take you behind the scenes to explore the artistry and dedication that goes into every pair of shoes we create. At Ego Atelier, craftsmanship is more than just a skill—it's a passion & enjoyable creative challenge that drives us to craft footwear that embodies both our vision & values. We hope this glimpse into our creative process helps you connect with the values and vision that define Ego Atelier.
THE PROCESS
Design Ethos & Pattern Making:
Designing a shoe that harmonizes functionality, durability, comfort, aesthetic appeal, and sustainability within a circular model is an intricate and demanding process. The designer must carefully select materials that are not only durable and comfortable but also recyclable, reusable, or biodegradable, ensuring the shoe can be fully reintegrated into the production cycle. The construction techniques must enhance the shoe's lifespan while facilitating easy disassembly for recycling. Ergonomics and biomechanics play a crucial role in comfort, requiring precise shaping and cushioning tailored to various foot types and activities. Aesthetically, the shoe must resonate with contemporary trends while being timeless enough to minimize the need for frequent replacements. Balancing these elements demands a deep understanding of materials science, sustainable design principles, and consumer behaviour, making the task both a technical and creative challenge.
Material Selection:
At Ego Atelier, our commitment to craftsmanship begins with the careful selection of materials that not only ensure quality but also align with our dedication to sustainability. The choice of material can make or break a shoe. Leather is a traditional favourite for its durability and comfort, but shoemakers today also work with a range of materials including suede, canvas, and synthetics. The quality of the material is paramount, as it influences the shoe’s comfort, longevity, and appearance.
Leather:
The leather used is meticulously chosen which is a by-product of the meat industry & sourced from family-run factories in Italy. A small Italian business on the Adriatic Coast provides handmade deadstock leather of the highest quality, which furthers our offering to create one-of-a-kind shoes for our clients. By using leather that would otherwise go to waste, we honour the life of the animal and contribute to a more sustainable industry.
Fabrics:
In addition to leather, reclaimed materials are also used, sourcing vintage and second-hand materials, each piece carrying its own history and character, ready to be transformed into something new and extraordinary. Personal material of a clients could also be used.
Circular Ethos:
We believe in using every scrap, ensuring that no material is discarded. Larger remnants are repurposed for smaller components of our shoes, such as the uppers, while even the tiniest scraps are shredded and used as stuffing for handmade cushions. This approach not only minimizes waste but also supports a circular economy model, where resources are continually regenerated and reused. At Ego Atelier, every material has a purpose, and every pair of shoes we craft reflects our dedication to responsible luxury.
Cutting Leather:
Hand-cutting leather is a meticulous art that requires both skill and respect. Each hide is unique, with its own natural variations and markings, telling the story of the animal it came from. When we prepare to cut the leather, we carefully assess the hide, considering its grain, texture, and any natural imperfections that might affect the final product. The placement of the pattern on the leather is crucial—not only to ensure the best use of the material but also to respect the integrity of the hide.
By thoughtfully positioning the pattern, we maximize the use of each hide, reducing waste and ensuring that the most beautiful and functional parts of the leather are highlighted in the final design. This careful consideration is part of our commitment to sustainable craftsmanship, where every cut we make is deliberate and every piece of leather is honoured.
As we hand-cut each piece, we keep in mind the animal that provided it, infusing our work with a sense of purpose and connection. This mindful approach ensures that our shoes are not just products, but tributes to the natural world, crafted with care and respect at every step of the journey.
Cutting Fabric:
In the world of shoemaking, every inch of fabric matters. At Ego Atelier, we approach fabric cutting with the same care and precision as we do with leather, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. Fabric, whether it’s a luxurious textile or a piece of vintage material, is a valuable resource that we treat with respect and intention.
When placing the pattern on fabric, we take the time to carefully plan each cut. This involves strategically positioning the pattern pieces to optimize the use of the material, making sure that we get the most out of every yard. By thoughtfully arranging the pieces, we minimize scraps and offcuts, ensuring that nearly all of the fabric is used in the final product.
This approach not only reduces waste but also supports our commitment to sustainability. Any smaller remnants that are left over are repurposed for details like lining, trims, or even as part of our cushion stuffing process. We believe that by maximizing the use of every material, we contribute to a more responsible and circular production model, where resources are used to their fullest potential.
At Ego Atelier, the careful placement of patterns on fabric is more than just a technical step—it’s a reflection of our values. It’s about making thoughtful choices that honour the materials we use and ensuring that each pair of shoes we create is not only beautiful but also a testament to our commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability.
Assembling the Upper:
Assembling the upper is a delicate and intricate part of the shoemaking process, where the vision of the design begins to take tangible form. At Ego Atelier, this stage is where craftsmanship truly shines. The upper—the part of the shoe that encases the foot—is meticulously stitched and shaped, requiring a steady hand and an eye for detail. Every seam must be precise, and every curve must be smooth, as the upper not only defines the aesthetic of the shoe but also plays a crucial role in its comfort and durability. Our artisans carefully align each piece of leather or fabric, ensuring that the fit is perfect and that the shoe will hold its shape for years to come. This artful assembly brings together all the carefully selected materials, turning them into a cohesive and elegant whole that reflects the quality and dedication inherent in every pair of Ego Atelier shoes.
Lasting & Sole Attachment:
The process of lasting and sole attaching is where the shoe truly takes shape, transforming from a collection of carefully crafted pieces into a functional and beautiful final product. Lasting involves stretching the assembled upper over a shoe last, a mould that defines the shoe’s final shape and fit. This stage requires precision and expertise, as the upper must be expertly manipulated to ensure a smooth, wrinkle-free surface that hugs the contours of the last. Once the upper is securely in place, the next step is attaching the sole—a critical moment where the shoe's foundation is established. The sole is carefully aligned and bonded to the upper using specialized adhesives and stitching techniques that guarantee strength and durability. At Ego Atelier, we view this stage as the culmination of our meticulous craftsmanship, where every detail comes together to create a shoe that not only looks stunning but also offers unparalleled comfort and longevity.
Heeling:
Heeling a shoe is the final step that adds both height and balance, completing the shoe's construction with a touch of refinement. In shoemaking at Ego Atelier, heeling is done with the same meticulous care as every other stage. The heel is carefully selected and shaped to complement the shoe’s design, ensuring it provides the right amount of support and enhances the overall aesthetic. Whether it’s a stacked leather heel for a classic look or a sleek, modern block heel, the attachment process requires precision. The heel must be securely fastened, often using nails and screws, to ensure durability and stability. After attaching, the heel is finished with attention to detail, including edge trimming, polishing, and adding a protective heel cap. This final step not only perfects the shoe’s silhouette but also ensures that it will offer comfort and resilience with every step.
Finishing:
The finishing stage in shoemaking is where the magic truly happens, transforming a well-constructed shoe into a polished, ready-to-wear masterpiece. At Ego Atelier, this final step is all about attention to detail. Every edge is smoothed, every stitch inspected, and every surface polished to perfection. The leather is treated with nourishing creams and waxes, enhancing its natural beauty and ensuring it will age gracefully over time. Any hardware or decorative elements are carefully buffed to a shine, and the shoe undergoes a thorough quality check to ensure it meets our high standards. The finishing touches, whether it’s a subtle patina, a final polish, or adding laces, bring the shoe to life, ready to be worn and appreciated for its craftsmanship. This stage is not just about aesthetics; it’s about ensuring that the shoe is as comfortable and durable as it is beautiful, embodying the elegance and quality that defines Ego Atelier.
As we conclude this chapter in the Journey of Ego Atelier, it's clear that craftsmanship is the beating heart of our brand. From the careful selection of materials to the meticulous handcrafting of each shoe, every step we take is guided by a commitment to quality, sustainability, and respect for tradition. At Ego Atelier, craftsmanship is more than a skill—it's a philosophy that shapes everything we do.
By honouring the materials we use, embracing ethical practices, and dedicating ourselves to the art of shoemaking, we create more than just footwear; we create pieces that tell a story of care, intention, and timeless elegance. Our journey is one of continuous growth and refinement, always driven by our passion for creating shoes that are as meaningful as they are beautiful.
Thank you for joining us on this journey. We hope that through our craftsmanship, you see not just the shoes we create, but the values and vision that define Ego Atelier.
Join us next week for the third instalment of this blog series Journey of
Ego Atelier: Building Ethical Luxury.
Sara x
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